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Buying guide

The jewelry sampling process and sample cost, from drawing to approved sample

Last updated: October 2026

By Jack Lv, General Manager — 925 sterling silver and GRA moissanite manufacturing in Foshan since 2011

Sampling is the step that turns an agreed specification into a physical object you can approve, and it belongs before bulk production because correcting a sample costs a fraction of correcting a shipment. At Nabest a sample takes 5 to 7 days, bulk production runs 15 to 20 days after approval, and the sample charge is deductible in full from the bulk order.

Why does the sample have to come before the bulk order?

A specification on paper is a description, and a sample is the object. Between the two sit all the things a description cannot settle: how deep a setting sits, how a surface catches light, whether a clasp feels solid in the hand, whether a curve reads the way the drawing suggested. A sample resolves those questions while the piece is still one unit of work.

The economics are simple. A change made at the sample stage is a conversation. A change made after a bulk run is scrap, a rework line and a missed season. Sampling is not a formality you can compress away when a launch date is tight; it is the cheapest control you have over what finally arrives.

Sampling also protects the second order. Once a piece is approved and sealed, it becomes the reference the factory repeats, which is why the quality of the sample and the way it is recorded decide the quality of everything that follows.

What happens from drawing to approved sample, step by step?

The sequence below is the path a design normally takes. Each stage produces something the next one depends on, so skipping a step tends to move the cost rather than remove it.

StepWhat you supplyWhat the factory doesWhat you get back
Brief and specificationDesign intent, size range, stone choice, finish and target quantityChecks feasibility and returns a price, quoting within 24 hours Monday to SaturdayA quotation with the specification written into it
Drawing or referenceA CAD file, sketch, photograph or a physical reference pieceTurns the reference into a workable drawing and flags anything that will not cast or set cleanlyA drawing to approve before any metal is cut
Sample makingApproval of the drawingPrepares the tooling, casts, sets the stones and finishes the pieceA physical sample, made in 5 to 7 days
Pre-shipment viewsConfirmation of the delivery address and courierPhotographs and video of the finished sample before dispatchVisual detail of the piece as it will arrive
Your inspectionCalipers, a scale and a loupeAnswers queries and records any change you requestA decision to approve the sample or request a revision
Approval and freezingWritten approval, plus the changes if anySeals the approved piece as the master sample and keeps it against the bulk runA recorded standard for production

What should you provide at each stage?

At the brief, give the market, the price band and the target quantity, because all three change what can honestly be made.
At the drawing, give a vector or CAD file if you have one. A photograph works, but a photograph of a competitor's piece leaves more to interpretation than a dimensioned drawing.
At the sample order, confirm the metal, the stone material and the finish in writing, using material names such as silicon carbide rather than a trade name alone.
If your logo is to be stamped, decide its position and size before sampling, so the sample carries it and the stamp is part of what you approve.
If packaging is part of the launch, say so early, because packaging can be sampled alongside the piece and approved in the same round.

How do sample charges work, and when do they come off the bulk order?

A sample charge covers the work involved: tooling if the design is new, the metal and stones in the piece, the labour to make it, and the shipping to send it. It is not a penalty and it is not hidden margin on the order. It exists because a sample is a one-off that consumes setup time, which is also why a factory can keep an order minimum low without charging for a full run.

The term that matters is whether the charge is deductible. At Nabest the sample charge is deductible in full from the bulk order, so the money spent testing a design comes back when you commit to it. Ask for that in writing, and ask what happens if you approve a sample and then do not place the bulk order, because that condition changes the effective cost of the sample.

Two related questions are worth settling at the same time. First, whether a revision after your own feedback carries a further charge, and how many rounds are included. Second, who pays the courier for the sample, because sample freight sits outside the production schedule and often outside the quoted price.

How should you inspect a sample when it arrives?

Measure it against the drawing. Small differences are normal in casting, but they should sit inside a tolerance you agreed, and someone should confirm that rather than assume it.
Weigh it on a precision balance. Weight confirms the metal content and the wall thickness of a hollow design, and a piece lighter than the drawing suggests thinner metal.
Check every stone for security. Probe each setting gently and look for movement, because a stone that moves in the sample will move in the bulk order.
Check the finish under magnification. Plating should be even at the edges, inside the shank and at the contact points, which is where thin coverage shows first.
Work the closure, the hinge or the earwire repeatedly. A clasp that catches or feels loose on the sample is a complaint waiting to happen on the shelf.
Check the hallmark and any logo stamp. If your mark is going on the piece, confirm the position and the depth on the sample rather than on a drawing.
Look for what a drawing could not show: sharp corners, visible solder lines, an unpolished interior, a stone set off centre.

How do you freeze the standard after approval?

Once you approve a sample it becomes the standard, and the standard should be frozen before bulk production begins. Freezing means the approved piece is sealed, labelled with the order reference and kept as the reference against which later production is compared. It is the physical version of the specification, and it is far easier to point at than to argue about.

Ask what the factory keeps and where. Nabest seals the approved sample and keeps it for the run, and photographs every shipment before dispatch, so a disagreement at delivery is settled against a piece rather than a description. Between the sealed sample, the agreed drawing and the pre-shipment photographs, the bulk order has three checkpoints instead of one.

Where a change is agreed after approval, the sealed sample should be replaced rather than amended verbally, so there is never a version of the standard that exists only in an email thread.

Why do samples get delayed?

The factory time for a sample at Nabest is 5 to 7 days, and bulk production is 15 to 20 days after approval. Courier time is additional, so build the launch date from the day the sample is approved rather than the day it was requested.

The two delays you control are the drawing and the feedback. Say what you want once, in a list, on the drawing, and the sample clock stays predictable.

A design described in words rather than drawn, so the drawing goes back and forth before anything can be cut.
Stone sizes or colours that have to be sourced, when the sample calls for something outside the running range.
A finish that needs its own setup, when the sample is testing a plating or a colour that is not normally run.
Buyer feedback that arrives in pieces instead of one list, so each new comment restarts the sample.
Courier time, which sits outside the sampling time and is often forgotten when a launch date is planned.
Questions we get

Answered

Do I have to pay for a sample?

Yes, in almost every case, because a sample is a one-off that consumes tooling, metal, labour and shipping. The question worth negotiating is not whether it is free but whether the charge is deductible, how many revision rounds are included, and who pays the courier.

Can I skip the sample and go straight to a bulk order?

You can ask, and some factories will agree for an existing design they already run. For anything new it is a poor trade, because the cost of correcting a specification after a bulk run is many times the cost of correcting a sample, and a bulk run consumes the season you were aiming at.

How long does a sample take?

Factory time for a sample at Nabest is 5 to 7 days, and bulk production then runs 15 to 20 days after approval. Add courier time at both ends, and remember that the sample clock restarts if the drawing or the feedback changes.

What if the sample is not what I wanted?

Say so as a single list of changes, referring to the drawing where possible, and ask which changes affect the tooling and which can be done by hand on the sample. Changes that touch the mould restart the sample, while changes to finish or stone can sometimes be corrected without new tooling.

Can I get a sample of an existing design?

Yes, and for a first order it is the lower-risk route, because there is no new tooling and the design already runs. You can still have the piece finished in your chosen plating and, if the design allows, carry your logo, while the sample charge is deducted from the bulk order as usual.

Want to see the plant and the process?
Ask us for factory photos and audit documents.

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